I Went To Kans-Ass City
About a month ago, while perusing the House of Large Sizes website, I noticed that they were doing a midwest tour. This tour didn't include Denver, or anything west of the Missouri River for that matter. They hardly ever tour west of the Missouri, much to my great chagrin. HOLS has been in my top ten all-time favorite bands since I first saw them at Trendz in Missoula in about 1992. So I saw the Kansas City date on the tour itinerary and thought aloud, "What a great way to see HOLS and visit a new city while I'm at it." I really dig checking out new places, especially cities, and have a lot left to check out. My parents were not big on vacations while I was a kid, or at least they weren't big on vacations that involved traveling far from Montana, a significant effort in itself. Thus it wasn't until I became emancipated that I finally got the opportunity to do some good traveling. And I got to add two more states to the roster of states I've visited, which, as you'll see from the map below, is quite unimpressive:
Red indicates a state in which I've spent a significant period of time. The blue ones are new as of this last trip.
So around noon on Thursday, I made a graceful, inconspicuous exit from the workplace and pointed my Subaru east with the intention of driving to Salina, KS the first night. I made it past Salina to Junction City, KS. This town has a pleasing small-town feel to it, and seems to be crawling with enlisted men and women from nearby Ft. Riley.
I got up early the next day, hoping to give Topeka a thorough examination before heading into Kansas City. Topeka appears to be pretty working-class, and much older than I imagined it. I climbed to the top of a parking garage to get a few photos of the downtownal area:
Topeka is not anywhere I'd want to live, but not a terribly unpleasant place to visit. It seems to retain quite a bit of its character however, which is more than I can say about most of Colorado, where the tendency is for all cities to become faceless retail pods.
Onward to Kansas City, which appears quite abuptly out of the open prairie of eastern Kansas. I have a fascination with constrasting what I imagined a place to be like before visiting with what it's actually like. As I mentioned some weeks ago, I imagined KC to be a flat, treeless haven for overweight white people. I was quite a bit off the mark on this. Kansas City is quite beautiful, in both its natural setting and the character of its architecture. It appears to be a pretty old town, which is to say it came of age as a metropolitan area long before many other latter-day urban areas. Lots of old red-brick buildings, especially just as you cross the Missouri River (and into Missouri proper).
I decided to make my way to the U of Missouri-KC to catch up on e-mail. College libraries, I've found, are the best place to avail yourself of free Internet access while traveling. Much better than the $9/hour or whatever they charge at Kinko's. As I drove to the campus, I was struck by how green and hilly KC is, vastly different than how I had pictured it. Humid too! A guy like me who's lived in Montana and Colorado is quite unfamiliar with humidity, and it is pretty stifling.

People practicing shot-put on the UMKC campus. Their mascot is the kangaroo, for some odd reason.
I decided I should probably figure out where the HOLS show is and nail down a hotel room near there. As it turns out, the show wasn't too far from UMKC, and I found a decent-looking Rodeway Inn about six blocks away and checked in. It was only about 11:30 am, so I decided to alight from the Subaru and hoof around. This part of KC was quite amenable to the pedestrian, and it was really cool to get a street-level feel for the place. The photo below is from the Westport part of town. Note how green it is, and how the traditional downtown feel is preserved, much to my delight:
After about five hours of hoofing, I was soaked in sweat, even though it was only about 55 degrees. I figured I should head back to the motel and rest up for the show since in my old age, I have a hard time staying up past 10pm. As is the case whenever I stay in a motel, I take the opportunity to catch up on my TV watching. Since I don't have cable or much time or inclination for TV watching while I'm at home, it's a guilty pleasure to sit around watching shit like "Behind the Music" and so forth. I've always kinda had a soft spot for "Behind the Music," but this time I happened to catch the Aerosmith episode. Now listen, I dig older Aerosmith (thanks to the relentless pro-Aerosmith overtures from my pal Jimmy Rolle), but watching Steven Tyler prattle on about his own historical significance is most off-putting. That guy is just in love with his own mythology and has a bloated overestimation of his own entertainment value. Same with Joe Perry. The other three seem to exercise a bit more humility, especially Brad Whitford, who, as Jimmy Rolle often asserts, is the real guitar player in that band. Joe Perry's got the swagger and rampant shirtlessness, but he's mostly for decoration. It's Brad Whitford that's really kicking the band along.
Unfortunately, following the Aerosmith episode was some documentary about KISS. I also dig the 70s KISS stuff a great deal, but listening to Paul Stanley and Gene Simmons (birth name: Chaim Witz) talk about their band borders on agonizing. Paul Stanley is fond of saying stupid shit like, "I believe if you have a great guitar and a great amplifier, you can conquer the world." And Gene Simmons is just like Henry Rollins in that everything is just so fucking intense, man. Fucking idiot. Has anyone heard that thing that was in heavy Internet circulation about a year ago of Gene being interviewed on NPR by Terry Gross? Man, if you didn't think Gene Simmons was a total asshat already, hearing that interview will cement that certainty for all eternity.
Oh, and then I was flipping through the channels and came across some video on the Country Music Channel called "Have You Forgotten" by Darryl Worley, I believe. Holy shit was that ever a jaw-dropper! I can't recall seeing such a load of jingoistic horseshit in my whole life. It was this severely corny-ass song a'la Lee Greenwood's "God Bless the USA" with all this slo-mo imagery of soldiers in action with an American flag in the backdrop almost constantly, and repeated showings of planes flying into buildings. It was truly sickening to think that there's a whole market of people that buy into this fucking patriotism sweepstakes and red-white-and-blue guilt-trip hucksterism. Seeing that video made me so mad that I was physically shaking. After I calmed down, I tried to be charitable in my thoughts, reasoning that the people who dig this stuff are just from a vastly different milieu and so on and so forth.
No. This crap is for fucking simps for whom love of country is on par with being at a NASCAR event or some other dick-measuring contest. It's for people who attempt to stifle any further dialog by lording their vast righteous patriotism over you. Part of what was so maddening about this video is that it served to remind me of these dark times we live in, when people who couldn't be bothered to drag their fat asses off the couch two years ago are suddenly the self-appointed guardians of all that is good and right in America. People who are all too happy to open their mouths and ingest the endless diarrhea squirt-stream of mind-numbing popular culture and hooray-for-us bullshit being foisted on all of us nowadays. Like Mike Watt says, it's too bad that patriotism doesn't mean being more civil to each other on a personal basis, and celebrating what is truly great about living here, 'cause it sure isn't about being able to watch 198 channels and have a DVD player in your car. During WWII, patriotism meant conserving resources and sacrificing your personal needs for the good of the country. Nowadays it seems to mean being even more gluttonous and selfish and giving blind faith and a blank check to George Bush. Truly disgraceful. I say we quit sucking each others' dicks and hi-fiving each other like right now and figure out how to move our society forward in a meaningful way. And like John Prine said, your flag decal won't get you into heaven anymore.
Sorry about that diversion, but that fucking shit weighed heavy on me. And to Darryl Worley: thanks for trying to guilt-trip me into submission, but I'm afraid your spiel sucks shit through a swizzle stick.
Before going to the show, I wandered over to Gates Bar-b-que, on account of I kept hearing how renowned KC is for its BBQ. First I got yelled at by the lady behind the counter because I walked into the beginning of the line. So everyone was looking at me. Then I ordered pork on a bun, which must be an unusual order, because everyone behind the counter started yelling "Poke on a bun to go!" like it had never been ordered before. Never have I felt so out of place at a restaurant in my life. But the food sure was good. In fact, I ate so goddamn much that I had a hard time dragging myself off the chair to go to the show. And since I didn't want to stand around watching opening bands, I decided to walk off the BBQ until HOLS took the stage.
Across the street from the Hurricane (where HOLS was playing), I encountered the following street scene:
Some guy had set up his drums and was laying down beats while people break-danced on the cardboard. There were some hot shit breakdancers there too. The last shot is of a homeless guy who got into the action. He mostly just stumbled around while his dog bit his pant legs, but it was good entertainment.
Like I said, I wasn't too keen on hanging out in the Hurricane any longer than I had to. After spending a healthy portion of my 20s in bars, I'm pretty well burned out on them. Call me a lame-o, but being around a bunch of loud drunk people that blow smoke on me and invade my personal space has entirely lost its appeal. This prevents me from seeing a lot of cool music, but I'm willing to make that trade-off. I don't think I ever really liked being in bars, but drunkenness has a way of mitigating that.
So I timed it perfectly, walking in the Hurricane just as the opening band was finishing their last song. I got a customary Pabst and eagerly watched HOLS set up their modest equipment. The last time I saw them was Easter '94 and I totally forgot how much goddamn power this band wields. And they don't fuck around either; they strap on their instruments, tune up, intone a properly melodramatic "Hi, fuckers" and just lay into it. I figure that the fact that they're from an uncosmopolitan place like Cedar Falls, Iowa accounts for their peculiar approach to playing music. Very much like the Minutemen, there exists a very palpable band chemistry and the songs are very unpredictable. Barb, the bassist, pogos almost constantly, while Dave, the guitarist and Barb's husband, walks around in circles like a caged tiger. Very inspirational band, this House of Large Sizes.
The next day I dropped into Lawrence, KS, setting of the 1983 TV movie "The Day After" and one-time home of dirty old Bill Burroughs. Much like KC, I found Lawrence to be an unexpectedly beautiful place. In fact, it reminded me of a cross between Missoula and Fort Collins, CO. I walked around for about an hour and could have easily spent the whole day there, but figured I should probably hit the road and make the long drive back across Kansas.
I deplaned in Goodland, KS, not far from the Colorado border at about 7pm on Saturday. I found Goodland to be a fairly creepy town, if only for the fact that everyone stared at me like I had antlers or something. Seriously, everywhere I went, people had no reservations about staring at me. I couldn't figure it out; it's not like it's a real out-of-the-way town that never gets outsiders, being right on I-70, 200 miles from Denver. I walked to the Wal-Mart to get some dental floss (I'd been eating beef jerky all day), and you'd think I was walking around in a hunter's orange Speedo the way people stared at me. Very disconcerting.
I think Goodland, Kansas can be summed up with the following two photos:












Why the hell would anyone want a fajita on a hot dog bun? Yecch.
I totally feel you on that country video. I always wonder where all these jingobots are hiding, but then I remember that I'm the one who has largely withdrawn from the retail stampede that poses as American society. Actually, though these fuckers may have all the money in this country, can they really be the majority? I mean, when you take into consideration how few non-white folks have jumped on that bandwagon (unless they're "fer'ners" sporting the obligatory stars 'n' stripes in the car window), can there really be that many of them?
Say, do you think yalestar has fallen on any watch lists yet?
- Chi-Chi April 28, 2003 14:06"Has anyone heard that thing that was in heavy Internet circulation about a year ago of Gene being interviewed on NPR by Terry Gross? Man, if you didn't think Gene Simmons was a total asshat already, hearing that interview will cement that certainty for all eternity."
Not long ago, they had an interview on NPR with C.C. DeVille-you know, from Poison? Anyway, I don't think I really had any expectations in advance of what he would sound like, but it was a far cry from the reality. He is 100% New Jersey with a nasally loud voice that stutters a lot. Really in your face kind of voice. The funniest part is that he sounds EXACTLY like a guy I work with, also from NJ, but in no other way resembles C.C.
Now every time Ken comes into my office and starts yapping, I hear, "Talk Dirty to Me" going through my head.
It's rather unsettling.
- Big Ame April 28, 2003 20:55I used to get a lot of mileage out of my imitation of CC DeVille. It's from (yes) "Behind the Music," where he's talking about his mansion in Hollywood and he says (in his very obnoxious Jersey trash bleating voice) "It was a house of whores, then it became a house of horrors." But the way he talks, it sounds like "ha-rahs" and "ho-azs".
Now every time Ken comes into my office and starts yapping
You have an office? Wow, nobody has an office at my workplace. Even the high-up manager types sit in glass closets that could only loosely be called offices.
largely withdrawn from the retail stampede that poses as American society
That's a bitchin' turn of phrase there, ChiChi. In Denver and other cities across the US, it is very much a stampede. Every weekend, six lanes of Yukons and H2s stampeding to the Home Depots and Circuit Citys, stuffing as much big-ticket shit as possible into their SUVs. Really, I don't see how people managed to get along for so many centuries without a fucking 44" TV. Americans have suffered for far too long!!! We won't stand for undersized TVs for another minute!!! To do so would be pro-Saddam, thus TREASONOUS!
- Yaharbal April 29, 2003 08:36We won't stand for undersized TVs for another minute!!!
When my viewing unit needed upgrading, I actually bought a 13 inch television that had that flatscreen shit so you don't lose the bottom and top of your viewing area. It was all I needed. I don't have a big place so I don't really need to be able to watch Judge Judy from the coiling shack, that's were I do my reading anyway.... I saw my neighbor move into the samesized studio apt. next door and he had this hugh television that took up one wall. It is like watching a movie in a closet. It is funny to walk around the apartment buildings because everyone has such hugh TV units you can see everything they are watching.
Kansas is better than you think it is. Eastern Kansas is great. Foothills to the northeast and somewhat hilly in the southeast. I like that area a lot. Western Kansas is much like eastern colorado. Did you stop at the 2nd Stucky's just over the KS border that has the 5 legged cow and two headed snakes?
PS: Where was the Yale Kaul Experience on the sampler CD?
- Rizzle Dizzle April 29, 2003 10:45Another disgusting display of jingo-patriotism:
Toby Keith, "The Angry American"
http://www.tobykeith.com/music.htm#427
- Mike (and Rick) April 29, 2003 13:40Kansas is better than you think it is.
Did I give the impression that I didn't dig Kansas? Oh hell, I dug the livin' shit out of it! And I only saw the part of it that gets bifurcated by I-70 anyway. Goodland was a bit creepy I guess, but on the whole I give Kansas mad propz yo. I saw that Stuckey's you're talking about, but couldn't see my way through to checking it out. Every time I see a Stuckey's sign, I think of that Dead Kennedys song "Winnebago Warrior" where they say "stop at Stuckey's for a meal; blab all day on the CB; honey quick, the polaroid." As a young punker hearing that song, I had never seen or heard of Stuckey's. I still have never been inside one.
I forgot to mention another thing about Kansas: the high level of public religiosity. Pert' near every motel billboard has the Jesus fish on it, and roadside anti-abortion signs abound. Both the Goodland and Junction City newspapers have a daily Bible quote featured prominently on page 2. The KC paper has one too, but there's another non-Christian quote beneath it, like a passage from the Bhagavad-Gita or something.
Where was the Yale Kaul Experience on the sampler CD?
There was so much other shit I wanted to put on there, I couldn't bring myself to sully that CD with my spew. I'll put it on next go 'round.
- Yardball April 29, 2003 14:10Toby Keith, "The Angry American"
- Yarball April 29, 2003 14:19I think I heard that piece of shit at the lodge of a ski area or something. I remember hearing the "boot in your ass" part and thinking "Whoa, sounds like someone is confusing US foreign policy with his own feelings of male inadequacy."
Seriously, it takes exactly zero intellect, courage or insight to write a song like that. The lyrics sound like they're from a high school fight song or something.
C'mon...really...how can anyone stand to listen to that crap?! I checked out the Toby Keith song and it sounds suspiciously like he's singing while trying to get someone's boot unstuck from his ass. Though I must say I wasn't very surprised to see he's sportin' a bitchin' mullet. I think a fitting end to this message is an assurance to all you dedicated yalestar cult members that I will make sure to show up in my office tomorrow, shirtless, the letters U.S.A. painted around my bologna tits, a roman candle in one hand, a boat horn in the other, and sing at the top of my lungs "Man, we lit up your world Like the 4th of July...And it feels like the whole wide world is raining down on you
Brought to you Courtesy of the Red White and Blue...`Cause we`ll put a boot in your ass
It`s the American way"!
(Please detect message dripping with sarcasm here).
Funny sidenote...I put the Toby Keith lyrics into MS word to spell check and see the Flesch Kincaid Grade Level (stats good ole' Bill Gates give you after a spell check) and it came out to 5th grade. Damn, how appropriate!
- Get yo' Jep on April 29, 2003 16:18I didn't think you disliked Kansas at all. I think there is a big misperception about areas such as that. People complain about cities and want a nature experience but discount Kansas and other areas as too rural. I was trying to talk it up!
- Rick in the Morning April 29, 2003 16:19My friend Marvel who is from Kansas says natives refer to Topeka as Tah-Puke-A. Too working class. She is also afraid of all the gangs in KCCity. But she has a love of Kansas as whole.
I like the QT gas station chain in Kansas (and other areas). I also like the Spangles fastfood restaurants.
You are right about the religiousness that abounds there. I remember a whole week in Wichita when people lined the streets at rush hour holding signs supporting some anti-abortion anniversery. Weird and scary if you don't know what is going on.
PS: I would eat a frajita in a hotdog bun!
- Sizzle Rizzle April 29, 2003 16:21Speaking of religious folks in Kansas, if I'm not mistaken, Topeka is the home of Rev. Fred Phelps, that guy who goes around to colleges and holds up "God Hates Fags" signs. You may recall that he also did this at the funeral of murdered U of Wyo student Matthew Shephard.
And wasn't Topeka also where the shit went down that led up to Brown vs. Board of Education?
- Yaxl April 29, 2003 17:00can they really be the majority?
Well Im going to go out on a limb here and make a correlation between these folks and folks who voted for shrub. Official results.
Now that works out with bore and shrub each getting roughly 50 million votes out of a voter age population of 205 million mostly overweight Amerikans. Roughly 24% of the population voted for that fucker. Which correlates to a Time magazine poll that showed 20% of Amerikans think they are in the top 1% tax bracket which happens to be 330K/year.
- stets April 29, 2003 21:46I prefer to pronounce it fa-jita (unsilent j, long i). That's how Toby K. and them say it, after all.
- Rummy April 30, 2003 09:39With regard to Stets' Stats (that sounds like a good name for a website, don't it?)
I love shit like this, so I digressed from whatever it is I do at work to make the following maps from the data on that website (click to enlargify):
This one shows voter turnout percentage by state for the 2000 presidential election:
This one shows percent of registered voters (% of all people in the state over 18) (NoDak has no voter registration and Wisc has registration at the polls):
All I have to say is: Is apathy a function of latitude?
- Hairy Fajita Kaul April 30, 2003 11:56Interesting that Cali and Tejas appear rather apathetic. Do you suppose the high number of illegal aliens skews the data?
- D. Gephardt April 30, 2003 13:29Do you suppose the high number of illegal aliens skews the data?
I dont think so Gep, because illegal aliens are historically undercounted during census gathering, so not only are they not registered voters, their true numbers do not appear in voter age population(VAP) count either.
Ifyou look at MT for instance where 104% of the VAP is registered, you would have to ? just how up to date the VAP count really is, and for that matter how accurate the resitered voter roles really are. Personally I think the turnout numbers are inflated.
What I know for sure is upwards of 75% of the US population did not vote for Dubbya Shrub. That my friends is not a Democracy.
- stets April 30, 2003 13:48I just read some interesting shit that might partly explain why the low turnout in TX and so on. Places with large income gaps statistically have lower voter turnout. The states with the biggest income gaps are: New York, Arizona, New Mexico, Louisiana, California, Rhode Island, Texas, Oregon, Kentucky, and Virginia. It's an interesting way to look at a phenomenon that most pundits would probably just chalk up to straight-up poverty numbers, eh?
By the way, the states with the smallest income gaps are: Utah, Indiana, Iowa, North Dakota, Colorado, Alaska, Maine, Wisconsin, Wyoming, and Nebraska.
(all this info is from http://www.zmag.org/zmag/articles/march2000sklar.htm)
MT for instance where 104% of the VAP is registered
I was wondering about that too. Alaska is 110%. What the dang fuck?
- yarboil April 30, 2003 14:11Alaska is 110%. What the dang fuck?
1) out of date census used for VAP calc.
2) motor voter registration, which inflates the registered voter count.
3)innacurate voter registration roles, dead people voting and shit like that.
If anyone is interested how Shrub and his bro stole the florida election read this book.
- stets April 30, 2003 15:02I just read some interesting shit that might partly explain why the low turnout in TX and so on.
Good point. In a place like Louisiana, I don't know whether to call it apathy. Many people have become so discouraged by a system that does not work for them that they have simply disengaged from the political process. I've never experienced anything like the income differential in Louisiana.
On the plus side, politics are sure a lot more entertaining down here. I'm only sad that I missed the election in which Edwin Edwards (who is currently in jail) ran against David Duke. My co-worker has a "Vote for the Crook--It's important" bumper sticker.
- Karlita April 30, 2003 15:19Here's another quirk to be worked out in the next election. If it were up to me, no deadlines would be changed so the "president" can exploit the temporally nearby 9-11 anniversary to drum up business, er... uh, votes.
- mhaze April 30, 2003 15:39I've never experienced anything like the income differential in Louisiana
That's interesting, because I thought it was a big differential in Colorado, but I guess not. Apparently, according to those stats above, there's quite a bit more economic parity here. There's so many fucking rich people here, but you don't really see much of the abject squalor here like you probably do there in Louisisana.
Louisiana seems to have a history of extreme politicians, what with Edwin Edwards and Davey Duke and Huey Long.
- Darl Kaul May 01, 2003 11:46What I know for sure is upwards of 75% of the US population did not vote for Dubbya Shrub. That my friends is not a Democracy.
I'm currently reading the third book of Robert Caro's biography of LBJ and I've come to realize how little our history reflects anything approaching true democracy. The very premise of the Senate (on which Caro's third volume dwells) was that it would function as a sort of stalling body, a bullwark against the popular and often ill-considered whims and "phrensy" of the masses (Missouri Compromise, McArthur's usurpation of Truman, for example). The Senate has, of course, become a stillwater of moneyed interests, but at the Senate's outset such interests were tempered by a noblesse oblige, which, frankly, utterly disappeared around the time of the Industrial Revolution...
But what happened was the union movement, which coalesced worker influence with strikes and their own money, which is tremendously significant. Currently, unions are about "as powerful as popcorn fart," to borrow LBJ's phrase. I'm still trying to figure out why folks aren't unionizing, especially in service sector jobs. Maybe things aren't bad enough (as opposed to significant risks like black lung) for American workers. Maybe we've exported so much of the dangerous work that used to provide manpower to unions.
In any event, my point is that votes, while important, have never ultimately been more crucial than money in our system. Sure, unions resulted in longshoremen and Teamster bloc votes. But that the unions were able to affect improvements (8-hour day and child-labor reform, etc.) for a range of non-unionized (and often, illiterate, non-voting) workers, was more due to the ability to buy candidates than secure votes.
- joshorse May 01, 2003 13:54